August 10, 2010

An epiphany on the occasion of a graduation

Those who follow my eating adventures know I usually limit this blog to the art of dining well in Nashville. However, I the restaurant my brother chose to celebrate his graduation from college was so adjective-evoking I couldn’t bear not to write about it.

Nestled in a strip of renovated old buildings on Tuscaloosa’s Greensboro Ave. near the Black Warrior River, across from the old-fashioned theater, hungry visitors will find Epiphany Fine Dining. This historic building once housed shoe and department stores, and the history is written on the walls of exposed brick, century-old hardwood floors, and vaulted archways. One step through the door and I felt the heat and the heartbeat of Tuscaloosa melt away and the cool, refreshing experience greet me at the door.

The restaurant has adopted a “farm-to-table” philosophy, using fresh local ingredients whenever possible. Additionally, each entrĂ©e is made-to-order in a skillet over the long, exposed stove. This results in a meal much more delicious than anticipated.

I was torn on what to order (shocking, I know!) so I asked for a recommendation from the knowledgeable waiter. Not wanting to not take his advice, I ordered the scallops, which he hailed as the best item on the menu. When my plate arrived, I was met with 3 plump, juicy scallops resting on a platter full of the sweetest, freshest corn I have likely ever tasted. As Grandma kept saying, “It’s like they picked it this morning and cut it straight off the cob.”

Complementing the succulent yellow and white corn was a mango salsa. Normally I am not a fan of mangos, but the sweet burst of flavor juxtaposed well with the sharpness of the corn and the spice of the peppercorns on the scallops. Unfortunately, about 3 bites in, I remembered why it is that I never order scallops. The flavor was good, but I just can’t handle that consistency.

My dad ordered a cheeseburger that was anything but traditional. Served on an onion roll, topped with Tennessee’s Benton’s Bacon, accompanied by warm red potato salad, he said it was one of the best he’d ever had. Mom ordered the veggie plate that featured fresh succotash, fried okra that was cut length-wise and flash fried, and the potato salad. She said the meal was perfect for the hot day.

To everyone’s shock, my brother ordered rabbit. He claimed it was good, but that’s about all he would proffer. I was intrigued by the coffee aioli the menu listed as a component of the dish but not intrigued enough to order wild game.

Though none of us ordered dessert, the list was full of dishes crafted with seasonal berries. The table next to us all ordered berry parfaits that looked beautiful and delicious, and each was served with French pressed coffee (my new favorite method, thanks to my coffee crash course in Seattle).

The restaurant’s website touts their dining experience will provide guests with “a moment of clarity” and, for the most part, I had that at Epiphany. In some aspects, though, I feel they were trying just a little too hard. Duck fat chips? Coffee aioli? Wagyu beef? It bordered on pretentious. (Although, I believe there is a fine line between artful and pretentious.)

All in all, Epiphany Fine Dining was a fine way to celebrate one of life’s milestones. Although, next time I’m dining in Tuscaloosa, I’ll likely be next door at Mugshots, where the burgers are much less expensive and the beer doesn’t come to your table in crystal.

The End Notes:
·    Should you ever find yourself celebrating a fancy occasion in Tuscaloosa, Alabama, by all means try Epiphany Fine Dining. Beware though: they only accept reservations for lunch and the dinner entrees start at $17.
·    Should you ever find yourself celebrating any other occasion in Tuscaloosa, Alabama, by all means try somewhere else. (I have several recommendations; just ask!)
·    Should you be an aspiring restaurateur in the Nashville area, by all means follow the format of Epiphany. I’d be an enthusiastic customer!

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